Dublin in the Afternoon

 

1


"When money's tight and hard to get
And your horse has also ran,
When all you have is a heap of debt
A pint of plain is your only man"


Dublin pubs can go through many transformations during a day. No bigger transformation occurs than in the evening (after about 9:30pm) when it seems everyone and their aunt come out to drink, socialize and enjoy the craic. This is Dublin at its noisiest, most boisterous, and rambunctious. A completely different atmosphere is found in the slow hours of the afternoon; the people are different, the talk is different and you have time to contemplate the marvelous beauty of the pub interiors.

The following is my list of pubs with the emphasis on good afternoon haunts. The frequencies of visits are dated from 1990.

A Classic Dublin Pub Interior



but you may be interested in some other sites also:


[an error occurred while processing this directive]

my favorite drink when fresh and poured right



The Tour

Anglesea, 6 Anglesea St.
Hotel bar. No.

Auld Dubliner, 17 Anglesea St.
Used to be a great place but they botched the various renovations. Not intimate but OK if you have a group of people --- can be very noisy. The old style bar is OK.

The Baggot Inn, Lower Baggot St., Dublin 2
Nothing special.

The Bachelor Inn, 31 Bachelor's Walk, Dublin 1
Changed owners recently. Surprisingly long bar with simple decor. Corner bar but windows are unspectacular. [Bass]

Barge, 42 Charlemont St.
Sometimes you can sit outside and watch the canal!?

Beggar's Bush, Haddington Road, Dublin 4.
OK.

Bellamy's Lounge, 13 Ballsbridge Terrace.
OK

Bleeding Horse, 24 Upper Camden St.
An odd pub --- the renovation was supposed to restore it but I don't know. OK.

Black Lion, Inchicore.
OK, if you are up that way. The lounge area went through a serious renovation in 1997.1

Bowes, Fleet St.
A great old style pub, high embossed ceiling, mahogany panels, the way it used to be. The copper table tops is a nice touch and the lighting and mirrors are just right. A must-see pub, but unfortunately, lately it is catering to a younger set that extends down into the afternoon. Sometimes the TV is too loud, but it does have a clock that goes backward. In 1998 seems something has changed about the bar but not sure what. In '99 there is no clock. Visually appealling but more and more disappointing, lights are too bright.[92,93,94,95,96,97,98,99]

Brazen Head, Church St ?
Dublin's oldest pub ca. late 12th century. Dingy with lots of little spaces. The tourists just wandering in and out (and not stopping for a pint !) is very annoying. Sometimes gives a bad pint.

Brogan's, Dame St.
Without doubt, the theme is Guinness, and on every wall ! Otherwise easy enough. Has a variety of knuckle type glasses.

Bruxelle's, Harry St.,
[off Grafton St].
Well designed but on a sunny day has taken it to a limit with more outside than in.

Busker's, Temple Bar.
No.

Davy Byrne's, Duke St.
Light and airy, comfortable easy place. Behind the bar is boring --- it must have been gutted years ago. Hand painted wooden ceiling. [Beamish, Caffrey's, sandwiches]

Danny Byrne's's, William St. S.
[across from Peter's Pub]
Small, comfortable easy place.

Cassidy's, Camden St.
[across from the Bleeding Horse] Quite place, nice inside --- the place where Clinton had a pint (?half). Still retains some of its old charming feel, very comfortable in the afternoon.

Castle Inn, Lord Edward St.
[across from the Lord Edward and Burdock's chipper]. Quiet place, nice inside, the sausages and chips are good to snack on.

Castle Lounge, Grogan's, Castle Market.
[across from Powerscourt center]. Place for artists and writers (at least wannabees). Physically somewhat dingy but samples of art for sale on the walls. Certainly a place for conversation.

The Chancery Inn
[Corner of Inns Quay and Charles St. West]:
Quite place, nice inside. Has what is best described as tudor style inside. [Beamish]

The Clock, Thomas St.
Not a bad place if you've rambling around Thomas street and the area. Decor a bit bright.

Patrick Conway, Parnell St.
[across from the Rotunda]
Corner pub with big windows with stained panels, Mahogany horse shoe bar, lots of wood, catch the old clock. Established about 1745 so is probably one of the city's oldest. Excellent Colm Meany drinking scene from The Snapper shot here. [Beamish, evening meals]

The Crane, Crane Lane, Dublin 2.
OK.

Copper Still, 152 Church St.
OK.

The Croppy Acre,
[near Queen St]. New pub done in old style. Comfortable wooden floor. Tasteful -- considering it is new.

Dame Tavern, Dame Court.
[across from Stag's Head] Nice little corner pub.

The Davenport Hotel, Merrion Sq.
Comfy couches, very small bar, slightly upscale but good if you have to meet someone posh. Lots of good pictures of (bad?) politicians on the walls. But not a pub so can be skipped.

Dawson Lounge, 25 Dawson St.
Too small and dingy (actually its claim to fame) for the afternoon.

Delaney, ?? Talagh.
An old pub done in a tasteful style. OK if you are out that way. 1

Doyle's, 9 College St.
OK if you are waiting on the bus.

Dohenny And Nesbitt's, Lower Baggot St., Dublin 2
A great pub with decent sandwiches. Old, seems like it has never been renovated. Wooden ceiling, old wood counter with partitions. Lots of Knickknacks. Can get full very fast. [Watneys, Beamish, Bass]

Lord Edward, Werburg St.
[across from Christchurch]. Old victorian pub, has hints of what it used to be, but it seems to be missing lots; was it gutted ? Don't be confused by the outside it is actually open. [99]

Flannerys, Temple Bar, Dublin 2
Not really.

Fitsimmons's, Temple Bar.
No. Generally very load even in the afternoon. TV on but cannot hear it. Physically OK. They ruin any possibility of a good afternoon drink with banging of glasses and the usual useless fine stuff. They have afternoon tea but skip it.

The Fleet, 1 Fleet St.
After a period as a lounge with dirty carpets, it has reverted back to its old form. It now has wooden floors, partitioned wall benches and bar counter. The present renovation is pretty good. [Closed in 1998]. Open again early '99 as Doyle's Next Door. Benches are gone, seems still in transition and lacking somrthing central.

Foggy Dew, Fowne's St.
So so.

Front Lounge/ Back Lounge, Parliment St.
Modern lifeless pub, more appropriate to austere gallery white walls !! Maybe should be a resturant.

Out on the Liffey nee Four Courts Inn, Ormond Quay Upr.
Nice relaxing atmosphere inside. Good wood work. Comfortable, cushioned benches. Old knick knacks --- check out the books in the case. Surprisingly spacious with lots of private places.

Four Seasons Inn, 199 King St. North.
[Near Bolton Street DIT (Dublin Institute of Technology)]. Long side pub with very small bar. Has potential but currently is painted gaudy blue, yellow and green, with some black thrown in!!

Ginger Man, 39 Fenien St.
[across from davenport hotel]. Smallish old pub, got some character. See the half clock. [99]

The Hairy Lemon, Sth. William St., Dublin 2
No.

G.F. Handel, Lower Capel St.,
Brilliant high ornate ceilings, great wood work around the fireplace. Has lots of knick knacks including a copper and brass gramophone, and a very unique snug (alas not in '98). The tables are old dining room tables. Changed to Jack Nealon in '99, changes are slight but results are great. [96,97,98,99]

Goldsmith's, Dame St.
Hotel bar, lovely stair cases, bar upstairs, excellent woodwork, feels classy. [98].

Hanlons, Hanlon's Corner, N. Circular Rd.
Good.

The Harp Bar, O'Connell Bridge, Dublin 2
OK in a pinch especially if you have to meet someone. In '99 under serious reconstruction, same co. as Messrs McGuire, so connected at least underground. This is not going to ber the harp of old. [84,88,92,94,97,98,99]

Halfpenny Inn, Aston Quay, Dublin 2
[across from Halfpenny Bridge]
Old corner pub with high ceilings but little windows. Bar is ordinary. Traffic is very noisy outside.

Hole in the Wall, Phoenix Park ??
A very curious place, it is like a very long cottage that has been added onto many times. It is worth dropping by.

The International, Andrew Lane?
[across from the The Old Stand]. A small pub with excellent woodwork bar -- perhaps the best in Dublin -- high ceiling. Woodwork is very complex with various figures as part of the elaboration. Old bartenders are a bit odd.

Isolde's Tower, Essex Gate.
[off Parliament St.]. Made to look old. Long, good for a hotel bar. [98]

John Gleeson & Son, 31 Wexford St.
OK.

Keating's, 1 Mary St.
[corner of Jervis St. and Mary St.]. A lovely little pub, great if you have been walking around the northside shopping.

Kennedy's, 32 Westland Row.
I liked it much better when it was Kenney's, but OK. Decor is very unimaginative but has a nice panoramic print of Dublin circa 1830, alas seems to be gone in '99. Many people from Trinity and the dental hospital drink here. In '99 became Fitsimmons]. [Beamish, Bass, sandwiches] [92,93,94,95,96,97,98,99]

Keogh's, St. Annes St.
[off Grafton St.]. Old woodwork, great wooden bar, still has old snug. One of the few remaining bars that has genuine old stuff. Check out the cash register. [92,94,96,98,99]

King's Inn, Bolton St.
[bottom of Henrietta St]. Small comfy pub with wooden floors. Lots of wood but it is stained pine. [Soup, sanwiches]

The Lincoln, Lincoln Place
Tudor style outside and sort of inside. No to the decor but it is possible to have a quite drink in early afternoon. Frequented by Trinity people.

Long Hall, 51 South George St.
One of the all-time great Dublin pubs, it is a must see. The high windows, knick knacks, muskets, big chandeliers and mirrors make this a pub for any time. The copper kegs are a reminder of when it bottled its own. The old gas lamps and clock at the end of the bar are great. [sandwiches] [92,...,99]

Long Stone, Hawkin's St.
A very strange pub indeed, the front is old shop style but the back has big rocks in sort of druid ? style. The wrought iron is good but the overstained pine looks cheap. One of those new pubs that has the decor right but the bartenders and waitresses are at odds with it. 3 bars, lovely copper sinks. Skip it unless you are on your way somewhere. [95,99]

Mahaffy's, 44 Pearse St.
OK.

Major Tom's, Stephen's Green Shopping Center.
No.

McDaids, 3 Harry St. (off Grafton St.)
[across from Bruxelle's]. Expensive but airy.

Millennium, Parkgate St.
[across from Houston Station]
No.

1

Mont Clare Hotel, Merrion Sq.
[across from the Davenport]. I hate to admit it, but this is actually a nice hotel bar. Tasteful decor, wooden ceilings, stained glass entrance, lots of nooks and crannies including a library room. But alas not since 1999. New furniture makes it just like a hotel lobby. Could be skipped. [92,96,99]

Mooney's, Earl St. ?
This place seems to have been purposely designed for the afternoon, its OK.

Mulligans Poolbeg St., Dublin 2
This is one of those pubs that is great on a slow afternoon, you can sit reading the newspaper and daydream and float back to how it was many years ago -- dark and dingy. The bartenders are very boorish (unless you are a very regular) but the place still seems to survive.

Murphy's Sarsfield Rd., Inchicore
[around corner from Blacklion, still referred to as Cleary's].
This has been a local for generation but its recent renovation destroyed the genuine wood bar replacing everything with lightly stained pine. It's a shame; it had a neat snug that should have been utilized. The bigger shame is the total destruction of the stone `stables' out back to make way for a carpark that is never open. 1999 has new owners, we'll see what happens. [always]

The Norseman, Temple Bar, Dublin 2
[across from the Auld Dub]. Another great one with the old wooden floors and remnants of gas lamps. The stained glass window gives a nice feel. Alas in '96 this is succumbing to a remodelling effort.

Neary's, Chatham St.(off Grafton St.), Dublin 2
Pleasant enough, has that sort of dowdy hotel feel about it. Catch the great lamps at the entrance.

The Oak, Dame St., Dublin 2
A stool by the window can be interesting, just watching all the people coming and going on Dame street. It is attached to Thomas Reads. Great ceiling and woodwork. Lovely mosaic tile floor. This is a must see pub.

Odeon, Harcourt St.
[the old railway station]. New in '98, a must see pub. Perhaps the longest bar in all Dublin. Just brilliant, lovely high ceilings, very stylish, expensive, wooden ceilings, green marble bar counter. A very understated approach but reeks of class. In 1999 they removed the bar stools --- a pub without bar stools. Something is very wrong. [98,99]

O'Donoghue's, 15 Merrion Row.
Flag stones and sawdust, a bit too dark for the afternoon. In '99 someone needs to dust off the bottles --- seems things are slipping.

src="images/dona.jpg" align="top" width="314" height="178">

The Old Stand, St. Andrew's Lane.
[across from the International].
A very pleasant place to have an afternoon drink. The food fare is also good. A lovely black dresser acts as the bar.

Oliver St. John Gogarty Fleet St., Dublin 2
A bit too touristy, but the open windows are nice on a warm day.

O'Neills, Pearse St., Dublin 2
Yes, this place has a great classical victorian feel to it with high ceilings and high big windows. The renovation a few years back was very tasteful. Excellent oil painting at end of bar complements the woodwork behind the bar. Nooks and crannies with different memorabilia --- a great look and feel.[92,93,94,95,96,97,98,99]

O'Neill, 2 Suffolk St.
This spacious pub is OK but parts of it are too dark. Currently under renovation. New part is brilliant, high ceiling, tall bar (is it new or not ?), real skylights, large chandelier --- It is very different from the rest of the pub. New part is much brighter, it is so tall that it has a loft area.

Old Pine Tree, Ruby Finnegans, The Ranch, Lower Ballyfermot.
[back to its old name, was recently Larry O'Shea]
This pub has potential but a series of mismanagements has driven it into the ground. Complete remodel, interesting knickknacks, tree trunks as pillars in the lounge. Foot rest is scrapper. [pub grub][92.....99]

1

Oval, 78 Abbey St.
Old place, still has lots of character. Excellent woodwork behinf bar. On three split levels, lovely front windows, interesting statues of black jazz musicians, the tallest i've seen and includes a female singer. [98,99]

O'Sheas Merchant, Across from Brazen Head.
OK, regularly has iridh music.

O'brien's, Dame St.
New pub made to look like old. Has too much paneling -- floor walls ceilings! Very loud because of wood.

Papa Joe's, [O'Looney's], High Street.
[beside St. Audeon's church]
A new pub done in old style (sort of), on three levels, and calls itself a piano bar. Nice parlor area on first entering, it is comfortable enough. Has old newspapers acting as a wall paper (some with crossword puzzles!) and lots and lots of pictures of all type. This is possibly overdone.

Portobello, Portobello Bridge.
OK.

The Palace, Fleet St., Dublin 2.
[just off Westmoreland St.]. A classic must-see pub, long and tall with old wood. Perfect front twin door entrance, excellent mahogany behind the bar, good collection of stoneware bottles. If you are lucky to get into the snug, there is an excellent set of photos, see them. [guest beers]

1

Peter's Pub, South William St., Dublin 2
[across from old Mercers hospital and Break for the Border].
A fairly nondescript quiet pub except that one of the Power's drawings on the wall is of the bar and of Enda behind it. Interesting collection of glasses above the bar. [coffee and sandwiches]

Piseog's, Cambden Court Hotel.
[around from the Bleedin Horse].
Celtic kitch ? The theme is celtic mythology fone in a circular fashion. The copper bar is neat, look down and it is a cauldron ! There is the `green' room that is like being in the woods. The slate pillars are real, the big earthenware jug is good, but i don't know ... different rooms have different myth themes, the murals are actually quite good.

Porterhouse, Parliment St.
Dublins first brewpub. Multi-levelled with an excellent collection of bottles on the walls. Good stouts and OK ales, lately serving guest beers but never Guinness. Great collection of import bottled beers. Some times great guest beers: 99 Siera Nevada Pale Ale is delicious. [food][96,97,98,99]

Pravda, Liffey St.
New pub in '98. Has Russian communist/proletariat theme. After narrow entrance, the bar opens into multi-levels a the bow of the battleship ptempkin. Not a place to get a good pint. Old boiler room feel to it. A bit too hip-hop for the afternoon --- too noisy.

Quay's Bar, Temple Bar, Dublin 2
A new pub but grabbed some nifty old stuff from god knows where. The panelling is brilliant, it makes the place seem like its been here for ever. A great example of making a pub seem old from day one.

Thomas Read's Dame St./Parliament St., Dublin 2
A new pub on the corner done in the `tall' style. It is nice and airy, a cross between a bar and a resturant. Perhaps a bit too steely.

The Regal Inn [Chaplins], 2 Hawkins St.
OK. Interesting old bus schedules. This pub has odd angles and its literal centerpiece are the toilets. Gets crowded very quickly. A rarity in Dublin a pretty good 'country' pub, a meeting place for irish not from Dublin. People come to talk and drink, obviously cliquish but .... [note to self, no need to come again]. They serve only cold flow Guinness.

Rumpoles, 18 Parliament St.
Small but not very interesting. [Not there anymore].

Ryan's, Wexford St.
The remodeling makes this very comfortable inside.

Ryan's, Parkgate St.
A classic victorian pub with high ceilings, horse-shoe bar, lots of mahogany wood, and those small mirrored counter partitions. Brass rail foot rest. Superb wood behind the bar --- a must-see pub. and it has a real snug ! [92,95,96,97,98,99]

Regans, Tara St., Dublin 2.
OK.

Frank Ryans, Queen St., Dublin.
OK.

Quill, 1 Arran Quay.
Quite, OK.

Sackville Lounge, Sackville Place.
[off O'Connell St.]
OK.

Slattery's, Capel St.
[near Mary St.].
Could be a great pub because it has all the genuine characteristics. Unfortunately, it has the penchant for playing blaring music which is difficult to stomach in the afternoon. But if you get past that, the decor is pretty good --- the ratty wall benches add to the ambiance. Parenthetically, upstairs is the place for traditional music.

Slatterys, Grand Canal St., Dublin 4
Nice pub.

The Stag's Head Dame Lane, Dublin 2
[off George's St.]
Brilliant must-see pub, excellent woodwork, high ceilings, complete wood panelling on walls and ceilings. Patterned windows. Excellent exterior also. Appeared in 'A Man of No Importance', and the Guinness add about twins. [pub grub until evening, guest beers]

Sackville Lounge, Sackville Place (off O'Connell St.)
OK.

Toners Lower Baggot St., Dublin 2
This pub gives you lots of knick knacks and stuff to look at. A Beautiful preserved interior contributes much to the lively atmosphere of this watering hole. This is a must-see pub.

Turk's Head Essex Gate, Parliment St., Dublin 2
[across from Porterhouse] Weird swirling mosaic stuff coming from ceiling with faces sticking out. New style of long side windows. Good paintings. If you get past the curvy columns it has a certain appeal, but it may get boring very quickly. This place has take mosaics to its ugly limit. [food]

Vicar St., Thomas St.
Modern, very high ceiling, excellent tapestry. Cold, not cosy, staff not attentive, surly. The fake marble counter top has fake beer stains -- a great mistake.


hard to find on draft in Dublin


Pubs on the Outskirts

 

Angler's Rest, Knockmaroon, Chapelizod.
Great on a sunny day when you can sit outside and can enjoy the Liffey. Inside could be quite id staff learned not to throw empty bottles into trash bucket -- such ignorance.

Blue Light, Glencullen, Dublin ?
Great view of Dublin Bay from outside.

Johnny Fox's, Glencullen, Dublin ?
This pub goes overboard in being touristy, but is somewhat interesting.

Poitin Still, Rathcoole?
Massive thatched roof cottage? with many small drinking areas. Excellent copper still and brilliant black wood behind bar.


[an error occurred while processing this directive]


Last Modified: December 15, 1999 doyle@ecn.purdue.edu